Prune Like a Pro with These Pruning Tools

Posted by Green Acres Nursery & Supply on Dec 13, 2016 2:11:01 PM

High-quality pruners are a gardener's best friend. There are many sizes and styles with different purposes, perfect for helping promote the health of your plants. 

For the majority of plants, the best time to prune is late winter/early spring because removing growth in the dormant season limits stress on the plant. Check out our previous pruning blog for more details about when and how to prune.

Pruning 101

Essential Tools for Pruning



Annuals & Perennials

Every gardener should have a pair of petite snipping tools for dead-heading (removing spent flowers to promote more blooms) or light pruning (removing anything under a half-inch-diameter). We like the Razor Snip® from Red Rooster®, which have two-inch-long resharpenable stainless steel blades for precision pruning with minimal damage.





red-rooster-komodo-pruner-8-003837-edited.jpgPerennials, Shrubs & Small Trees

Bypass pruners are ideal for the woody branches of small trees and shrubs up to three-quarters-inch diameter. The "bypass" part of the name describes the slicing action; the two sharpened blades pass by each other, leaving a clean cut with minimal damage to the plant. We find these to be indispensable in the garden, and the high-quality forged steel resharpenable blades will last for years, on the Komodo® bypass pruners.





Small Shrubs, Trees & Vines

For one-and-a-quarter-inch diameter branches, loppers are the way to go. Lightweight carbon steel handles offer leverage for pruning mid-large woody branches with ease. The extended length of the handles are great for pruning hard-to-reach areas like a rose thicket



surecut_folding_saw-492251-edited.jpgLarge Trees, Shrubs, Vines

For four-to-five-inch thick branches, a folding saw is a must. This model has a nine-inch-long curved steel blade with coarse teeth for easily slicing through large limbs. The ergonomic hardwood handle folds against the blade for easy and safe storage. 



For anything larger than five inches thick, we recommend consulting a certified arborist.  Click here for tips on hiring an arborist from the Sacramento Tree Foundation. 

Topics: Pruning, Tools, Landscape Supply

Pruning 101

Posted by Green Acres Nursery & Supply on Feb 4, 2016 9:57:15 AM

pruning_woody_plants-resized-600-011342-edited.jpgPruning is the act of selectively trimming plant material in order to direct growth. This is done to promote better flowering or fruiting, accentuate a plants natural form or increase it's vigor. Everyone who gardens will eventually utilize pruning to maintain their plants health or appearance, so if you're uncertain about how to prune a specific plant visit one of our five locations and let us walk you through the process. 

The right tools are key to the pruning process. 

Here are our recommendations: 
Prune Like a Pro

When is the best time to prune?

For the majority of plants, the best time to prune is in late winter to early spring. This is because a dormant plant is less likely to have a stress reaction to the removal of limbs and foliage. 

It's better to prune towards the end of the dormant season because:

  • Dense branches can help insulate a plant from frost damage, so you want to leave them on during the coldest parts of winter 
  • Late winter is right before new growth happens in spring, so a plant is ready to close off the wound as quickly as possible when it starts growing as soon as the weather warms up
  • Deciduous plants have no leaves, so it's easier to see their natural forms and access the branches which need to be pruned

Fruit trees, roses, perennials (such as lavender and sage), grasses and most shrubs are pruned at this time of year. Fruit trees and roses can be pruned in several different ways depending on their type, age and desired use. 

Click the link below for tips on pruning roses:

Pruning Roses

Click the link below for tips on pruning fruit trees for the home gardener:

Backyard Orchard Culture

There are some exceptions to the rule, some plants should not be pruned in late winter to early spring.

The following categories of plants should be pruned at different times of year:

  • Apricots and cherries are susceptible to fungal and bacterial infections, and open pruning wounds in cooler weather can exasperate the issue. They should both be pruned after fruiting in late summer or fall. 
  • Trees, shrubs and vines which bloom in spring are blooming on old wood, meaning wood that developed the previous year. As a general rule, any shrub or tree which blooms in spring should be pruned shortly after they've finished blooming. 
  • Hydrangeas- if you have an everblooming variety of Hydrangea such as the 'Endless Summer'® or 'Let's Dance'® series, they can be pruned throughout the year. The varieties which bloom annually shouldn't be pruned after mid-August. 

What types of pruning cuts are there?

Heading: Heading cuts prune away the tip of a branch, or it's terminal shoot. This is usually done to stop a branch from growing longer, and encourage bushy growth from lateral shoots. A heading cut on the main leader of a tree, is known as topping. Topping will stunt the tree from growing taller, and is not generally recommended. 

Blueberry_pruning-resized-600.jpgThinning: Thinning cuts (pictured) are where you select a lateral branch you would like to shorten, trace it back to it's point of origin, and cutting it off there. Thinning reduces size while maintaining a plant's natural form–ideal for pruning Japanese Maples. For plants which send up branches in a clumping pattern directly from the ground, the branch is traced back and cut at ground level. 

Shearing: Shearing is a type of pruning in which a lot of small branches are cut with "heading" cuts all at once, usually flush to the same level vertically or horizontally. Shearing encourages dense, uniform lateral growth for a neat and trimmed form–typically to maintain hedges and topiaries.

Note: Whenever shearing a hedge, always shear it at a slight angle like a pyramid, where the base is wider than the top, so that the top of the hedge doesn't cast shade and prevent light from reaching the lower branches. 

Pinching: Pinching is a way of preventing a bud from developing into a branch or flower. It is generally only done to new growth or herbaceous plants, anything soft enough to be severed with your fingers. This method is good for directing growth of young plants, and preventing flowering or fruiting. 

Topics: Winter, Tree, Shrubs, Pruning, Roses, Fruit Trees, Japanese Maples, Perennials

Weekend Workshops are Back!

Posted by Green Acres Nursery & Supply on Jan 15, 2016 2:50:54 PM

It's 2016 and we're help you to get growing in the right direction with free workshops Saturday morning at all four locations.

Workshop Calendar

Here's a sneak peek at some upcoming topics:

pink_peace_rose-487196-edited.jpgJanuary Workshops

Roses De-Mystified
1/16. 9am. Elk Grove, Roseville & Sacramento
1/23. 9am. Folsom, Roseville & Sacramento
Roses may look high-maintenance but they don't have to be. Get hands-on help from the experts at our Saturday workshops this month. 

As a bonus, we are hosting two exclusive workshops at Folsom and Elk Grove featuring guest speakers from the Sacramento chapter of the American Rose Society. Please RSVP for the guest speaker workshops below:


February Workshops

Prune Like a Pro
2/6. 9am. All Locations. 
Unsure where to begin with the annual pruning of your trees, shrubs, vines and perennials? Let us show you! Learn about best practices, tools of the trade and helpful maintenance tips. 

Starting from Seed
2/13. 9am. All Locations. 
Get a jump start on gardening this year by starting all your annuals, vegetables and herbs from seed. You'll learn best practices and helpful germination tips to get your garden off on the right foot. 

Roses De-Mystified
2/20. 9am. All Locations. 
Don't be intimidated by planting, pruning or maintaining this classic garden favorite! Find out how to make your rose garden as gorgeous as the professionals, and which varieties are best for the Sacramento region.

Tree Solutions
2/27. 9am. All Locations
Trees can be great problem-solving plants in the landscape- if they are planted and maintained correctly. We'll discuss varieties, planting tips and selecting the tree which your family will enjoy for generations to come. 


Do you have an idea for how we can improve our workshops?

Suggest a Topic!  

Happy New Year! 

Topics: Free Events, Pruning, Events, Workshops, Sacramento Rose Society

Tips from Sacramento Rose Experts

Posted by Green Acres Nursery & Supply on Dec 8, 2015 3:04:59 PM

rose_shrubs-558901-edited.jpgWith their long bloom season, impressive flower display and enticing fragrance and color, roses may seem like a lot of work but they don't have to be. The Sacramento Area chapter of the American Rose Society has some basic guidelines on how to make your rose garden thrive, without breaking your back. 






  • In our climate, the best time to prune roses is mid-December to mid-February.
  • Newly established roses should be pruned very lightly, just enough to removed dead branches or twiggy canes.
  • Always start pruning from the base of the rose (bud union) and working your way up, thinning out all but the strongest canes.
  • Make your cuts 1/4" to 1/2" above the bud.


For more tips check out our Pruning Roses blog

  Pruning Roses

Month-by-Month Maintenance


  • Prune all roses through mid-February, except those that only bloom once a year. Those that bloom once a year should be pruned after they bloom. 
  • Clean all debris from around roses to prevent fungal diseases.
  • Plant bareroot roses.
  • If you've noticed problems with your roses in the past year, such as fungus or insect pests, spray with Neem oil to prevent problems in the future.


  • Finish all rose pruning by mid-February before new growth begins. 
  • Test your soil for pH and nutrient imbalances, add amendments as required.
  • Apply organic soil amendments as needed to help enrich you soil.
  • Apply a 2-4" thick layer of mulch around roses, being careful to keep it a few inches away from the base of the plant to prevent crown rot.


  • Check irrigation to make sure it's functioning properly. In the summer, most roses need a minimum of three times per week watering for the best blooms.
  • Fertilize with EB Stone Organics Rose & Flower Food according to package directions now through September. Add specialty amendments as needed, based on soil test kit results.
  • Monitor for aphids on new growth. Aphids can easily be controlled by many methods, including horticultural oils, soaps and organic insecticides. Check out our Pest SOS Series for tips on controlling aphids. 
  • Monitor for fungal diseases and apply fungicides if needed. Fungal diseases can be prevented by removing debris around roses, applying dormant sprays, and pruning for good air circulation in the winter. 


  • You may choose to thin out buds to create fewer, but larger blossoms. 
  • Deadhead frequently to extend bloom season.
  • Continue monitoring for fungal diseases, treating if needed. Remove and discard leaves which show signs of powdery mildew, rust and black spot. 
  • Continue monitoring for pests. If you notice any damaged leaves or flowers, bring pictures and samples into our Landscape Supply department for help identifying and treating the problem. 


  • Cut back spent blooms and remove fallen foliage and petals from around shrubs. In newly planted roses, cut off only the spent blooms. In older shrubs, cut back all the way to pencil-diameter stems or thicker, but stay above the 5-leaflet leaves. This will need to be repeated after each bloom cycle (every six to seven weeks). 
  • Monitor for spider mite infestations. Symptoms include mottled discoloration of the leaves and webbing underneath. If found, spray undersides of leaves with water to deter. Do not spray horticultural oils, which can damage foliage when temperatures reach 90°F.
  • Continue monitoring for spider mites. 
  • Check irrigation to make sure that roses are getting adequate water. If using drip, you may need to swap out your emitters to a higher-flow capacity.
  • Continue to cut back roses after bloom, but be careful not to remove too much foliage, which can expose tender canes to harsh light, resulting in sunscald. 
Garden Tip: If hosting a big event such as a party if your yard, you can set your roses up for a big bloom by cutting back spent blooms and fertilizing about 6-8 weeks before the event. 



  • Replenish mulch in the rose bed if soil is visible.
  • In preparation for a fall rose show, cut back blooms on all roses. To encourage blooms in late September, cut spent blooms mid-August; for mid-October shows cut back by the first week in September. 
  • Apply water soluble fertilizers to supplement fall blooms. 


  • Monitor for aphid infestations, especially on tender new growth. Control with organic insecticides if needed. 
  • Temperatures dropping might encourage fungal diseases such as powdery mildew. If you are consistently having problems, be sure to avoid overhead watering and prune for better air circulation in winter. 
  • Fall is the best time to seek out companion plants for around your roses. Plant flowers which attract beneficial insects to help control pests such as aphids. 


  • Decrease fertilizer application, especially anything high in Nitrogen.12_Days_210-801725-edited-904377-edited.jpg
  • Continue monitoring for pest problems in order to catch them early.
  • Adjust watering system to accommodate for cooler temperatures and rainfall. If you use drip, emitters may need to be swapped for lower-flow types.
  • Continue cutting back spent blooms, making sure not to leave any debris behind which can encourage fungal issues. 
  • Secure long canes of climbing roses to prevent wind injury. 
  • Check irrigation again, it may need to be shut off if natural rainfall is adequate.
  • Allowing some roses to develop hips can provide your garden with some color in the winter months. 
  • Continue good sanitation practices. As roses lose their leaves, remove the debris to prevent fungal diseases. 
  • Make sure you have everything you need for proper rose pruning
    • bypass pruners
    • folding saw
    • loppers
    • elbow-length gloves
    • kneepads
  • Begin pruning roses mid-late December. 


Dowload our Packaged Bareroot Rose Varieties List  

Choose from a great selection of Climbing roses, Hybrid Teas, Grandifloras and Floribundas at the best prices of the year!

Topics: Pruning, Roses, Cut Flower Garden, Neem Oil, Grandiflora, Spider Mites, Floribunda, Climbing Rose, Sacramento Rose Society, Rose Care, Rose Pruning, Hybrid Tea Rose

The Top Nine Japanese Maples for the Sacramento Region

Posted by Green Acres Nursery & Supply on Oct 22, 2014 5:09:00 PM

Native to Japan and Korea, Japanese maples are prized as specimen trees because of their handsome sinewy trunks and graceful branching habit. They come in a variety of sizes and forms, such as upright, weeping, broad leaf or lace leaf. Our Japanese maples are supplied by reputable growers such as Monrovia, Western trees, Kraemer's and Matsuda's. The varieties listed below are some of the most popular cultivars carried by Green Acres Nursery & Supply.


  • Acer palmatum
Height: 15-25ft
Width: 15-25ft
This is the basic, un-grafted seedling form. It has broad green leaves and a mottled gray-green trunk. Fall color is yellow, orange and red.
  • Bloodgood
Height: 15-18ft
Width: 15-18ft
A perfect specimen of a red, upright maple with deep reddish purple foliage. Foliage retains deep color well into the summer. Bright red fall color.
  • Crimson Queen
Height: 9ft
Width: 9ft
Beautiful weeping lace leaf type with striking burgundy foliage. Fall color is bright reddish purple.
  •  Emperor One
Height: 15-20ft
Width: 15-20ft
An upright variety with bright red leaves. It's comparable to Bloodgood, but grows slightly faster. Scarlet fall color.
  • Inaba Shidare
Height: 8-10ft
Width: 4-6ft
An elegant lace leaf specimen with unusually large leaves. Holds its deep reddish burgundy color through the summer. Crimson fall color.
  •  Red Dragon
Height: 4-6ft
Width: 3-4ft
A dwarf form of weeping maple with beautiful red lace like leaves. Does well in containers. Bright red fall color.
  • Sango Kaku
Height: 20-25ft
Width: 18-20ft
This beautiful coral bark maple has year round interest. Leaves emerge bright green in the spring, and turn yellow in the fall. Bright red bark is visible in the winter.
  • Seiryu
Height: 10-12ft
Width: 10-12ft
An unusual upright variety with delicate lace like leaves. Bright green leaves turn orange and gold in the fall.
  • Viridis
Height: 4-6ft
Width: 8-12ft
A beautiful example of weeping green lace leaf. Leaves emerge yellow green and have a showy yellow gold fall color.

Sun Tolerance

While most varieties of Japanese maples will not thrive in full sun in our climate, some can adapt to sun very well.  Varieties which have broad, red leaves tend to adapt the best, while lace leaf varieties don’t fare as well.  The key to successful adaptation is sufficient irrigation, and a thick layer of mulch to blanket the roots away from the trunk.

Tip:  When the Sacramento heat is unbearable, application of Bonide™ Wilt Stop can help your tree adapt to the afternoon sun by creating a protective barrier, slowing water loss through the leaves.


Japanese maples have very delicate leaves, with thin branches meaning water doesn’t move very quickly up from the roots, and their leaves will show damage if the soil becomes too dry. A 2-4” layer of mulch around the roots slows the evaporation of water in the soil, keeping the roots cool and moist. To avoid crown rot, keep the mulch a few inches away from the trunk of the tree.

The frequency of watering a Japanese maple depends on:

  • Soil texture
  • Sun exposure
  • Wind exposure
  • Size of the tree
  • Season

There is no single answer on how many times per week you should water your tree, because it varies so much depending on the factors listed above.  However, it is always a good idea to water deeply, yet infrequently.  Each time you water, thoroughly penetrate the root zone, and give the water a chance to evaporate out of the soil before watering again.


When planting, use a slow release starter fertilizer, rich in phosphorus, to help develop a strong root system.  We recommend E.B. Stone Organics Sure Start.  Japanese maples are sensitive to accumulated salts in the soil, using an organic fertilizer is the best way to avoid that. As the nutrients in organic fertilizers break down, they feed the microorganisms in the soil, slowly releasing nutrients and building the overall health of your soil.

Once the tree is established, feed it regularly with an organic tree and shrub food.  Apply fertilizer from the time leaves emerge in spring until dormancy.  If your tree is visibly stressed, avoid fertilizing it.  Fertilizers are for stimulating growth, and stressed trees need time to recover.


Japanese maples have a naturally graceful growth habit.  Accentuate their natural beauty by thinning to allow light into the canopy, and avoid “heading” or “shearing” cuts.

Each year, remove any dead branches or branches that are crossing.  It’s always better to prune off a branch while it is small than it is to prune a large branch; it will leave a smaller wound.  Avoid early heavy pruning if you would like your maple to acclimate to the sun. The tree will need as much energy as it can get from its leaves to build its sun tolerance. The best time to prune is in late winter, before the tree leafs out.  Because it is still dormant, you avoid shocking it too much, and because it has no leaves you can see the structure of the tree more clearly.


Signs of stress mean, it’s time to do an inspection.  Closely examining the tree from the roots up is the best way to assess the problem. Keep in mind, a newly planted tree may just be experiencing transplant shock and will likely recover once it’s established.  New trees acclimating to the sun may show signs of sunburn on the outer leaves for the first few years.


Inspection Check List:

  • Starting at the roots, probe the soil with your fingers (wait a few days after watering). Does the soil feel wet? If so, there may be a problem with the drainage, or you are watering too frequently. Tree roots need oxygen as well as water to thrive, so soil should never feel wet for long periods of time.
  • Examine the crown of the tree where the roots meet the trunk. Is it above or below the soil line? The crown should never be allowed to sink below the soil line, or become buried by mulch. The crown should be flush with the soil level. It is easier to add more soil than it is to remove it, so always plant on a slight mound to compensate for settling.
  • How does the tree trunk look? The bark on a Japanese maple is very thin, and damaging it will slow the growth and vigor of the tree. Apply white tree trunk paint to remedy this scorching.
  • Finally, examine the branches and leaves. Leaf curling, ants, oozing sap and yellowing leaves are some symptoms of a pest problem.

    Be Sure to Plant Trees Correctly With our Free Guide

    Tree Planting Guide


Topics: Tree, Planning Your Landscape, Pruning, Sacramento Gardening

Creating a Backyard Orchard

Posted by Green Acres Nursery & Supply on Jan 9, 2013 2:21:00 PM

creating a backyard orchard

Everyone loves the taste of freshly picked, tree ripened fruit, but not everyone has the space for a full sized orchard at home.

Backyard Orchard Culture maximizes the yield of fruit production in minimum space by planting a variety of fruit trees close together and controlling their size with vigilant pruning. This innovative fruit tree growing method was developed by Dave Wilson Nursery in order to solve the problem of space constraint faced by the average home gardener.

Tree Selection

Semi dwarfing rootstock is the best option for backyard orchard culture, as it will help prevent the tree from reaching an unmanageable height. Genetic dwarf rootstock are also a good option, but not available for all varieties. When considering fruit varieties, try selecting those which ripen successively, in order to extend the harvesting season.

High Density Planting

By planting multiple trees in a single hole, you limit the tree size by creating competition for water, light and nutrients. This great strategy for backyard orchard culture, as the main goal is to keep the trees as small as possible while still providing them with enough room to produce a decent yield. Keep in mind that with this method, you will have to watch that one tree does not become dominant and overwhelm the others. It is recommended to use trees which are grafted on the same type of rootstock, because their growth rate will be similar.

It is possible to group 2 to 4 trees in a single hole, spaced 18-24 in. apart. Be sure to space the tree groupings 12-15 ft. apart to allow for sufficient air circulation and light saturation.

creating a backyard orchard


Year round pruning is an essential part of backyard orchard culture, as it controls the trees size. The ideal size of a fruit tree is ultimately decided by the gardener, and enforced by regular, persistent pruning. The tree should be big enough to produce a decent yield, but small enough for easy maintenance, usually around 4-6 feet tall.

Initial Size Reduction

Initial size reduction pruning can be done just after the fruit tree has been planted. It is  a heading cut  intended to force low scaffolding branches. It is best to start with young trees of a smaller caliper ( ⅝ inch or less) because they are less established and respond better to drastic size reduction. Bareroot trees can be topped anywhere from 15 in. to 4 ft. depending on desired form and placement of existing branches. For multiple trees in one hole, cut all trees back to the same height. When selecting trees of ¾ inch caliper or larger, look for those with low established limbs, 15-18 in. from the ground, and cut tree back by ½ to ⅔. If no low branching higher caliper trees are available, hold off on initial pruning until after new spring growth.

First Year

After spring flush of growth (late April to early May), cut new growth back by half. In late summer (late August to mid September) cut subsequent growth back by half.

Second Year

Prune the same as the first year, cut growth by half in spring and again in late summer. Begin to thin out the center and aim for an open vase shape.

Third Year

Don't forget that you determine the final height of the tree-do not allow it to grow taller than you desire. Continue to cut back all new growth by at least half in late spring and early summer. Some trees may need to be pruned more frequently, depending on their vigor.  Make sure your scaffolding branches are well spaced and do not cross or grow inward.

Creating a backyard orchard

We hope this gives you some inspiration about creating your own backyard orchard.  Bareroot season is January and February.  During this time of year you will find the absolute best selection of fruit trees- we carry over 133 varieties! 

Bareroot Fruit Varieties



Topics: Pruning, Backyard Orchard, Fruit Trees

Tips for Rose Pruning for Sacramento Gardeners

Posted by Green Acres Nursery & Supply on Dec 17, 2012 3:16:00 PM

rose pruning for Sacramento

Take a look at a few tips you need to know before pruning your roses this season.


Understanding the objective behind every “cut” is the key to learning how to prune.  Once the goals are understood, then the techniques will follow naturally.

Why Prune Roses?

1.  To increase plant vigor.  Unproductive canes are dependent on the healthy ones for their maintenance.  Removal of the diseased, small and old (brown instead of green) canes will result in a healthier plant.  Not only will the plant look cleaner but it will also have less chance of getting the same diseases that infected the previous years' growth. 

2.  To increase and prolong flowering period.  Pruning encourages the growth new canes.  Younger canes tend to have a vigorous growth resulting in more branching.  Since flowers appear on new branches, more flowers will be produced.  Eventual pruning, also known as dead-heading, will have the same effect of encouraging further flowering. 

Rose pruning for Sacramento

3.  To train the rose to desired shape and direction.   Roses are planted for different purposes.  Some are grown as accent plant, hedges, climbers, ramblers, or in masses as in botanical gardens.  In general, roses are pruned to have an open vase-shape allowing the canes to grow slightly outward as in the letter "V".  This is to allow all the stems to get the maximum exposure to sunlight and air circulation.

Ramblers and climbers are pruned to train and guide the canes to follow a specific direction as is growing to cover an arbor.  Once they are established, pruning will be done to maintain the shape of the plant.  Remove dead and damaged branches as well as new canes that are out of place.  Some climbers, such as 'Cecile Brunner', are vigorous growers that if you allow them to grow without intervention, then you are setting yourself up for a mega-pruning job in the future.  A little bit of maintenance pruning each season is in order.

4.  To regulate flower size.  When canes are removed, new healthier ones are encouraged to emerge resulting in larger blooms.  Dead-heading (removal of spent flowers) on the other hand breaks apical dominance which improves lateral branching resulting in more but smaller-sized flowers.  

5.  To promote safety in the garden.  With the exception of a few varieties, roses are like living barbed wires.  Prune roses accordingly in order to keeps the branches away from traffic and play areas of the garden.   

When to Prune Roses

The optimal time to prune roses is determined by the temperatures in a given area.  For best results, pruning should be done late enough in the winter after the last frost but before the buds open up.  In the Sacramento Area and the Sierra Foothills, the optimal time for pruning ranges from mid-December to mid-February – the higher the elevation the later the pruning schedule should be.  In the case of an unexpected change in the weather, ignore the calendar and let the plants speak for themselves - enlarged buds are a sure indicator that it is a good time to prune. 

Making the Cut

Many roses benefit from removing 1/3 of the top growth and removing all but 3-5 canes in a vase-shaped configuration.  The amount of cutting can depend on what type of rose you have.  For example, Hybrid Tea, Grandiflora and Floribundas should keep 3-6 strong healthy canes, whereas Shrub and English roses do best to maintain 6-8 canes and need only light pruning the first two years.  Although there are variations depending on the variety, there are some rules of thumb to always remember when pruning roses:

  1. Remove any suckers away from the trunk or root of the shrub
  2. Make your cut at a 30 to 45 degree angle about 1/4 inch above an outside facing bud.
  3. Seal a pruned cane if it is larger than 1/2 innch with sealant to prevent insects from entering through the wound.

Good information, right?  Do you want to double check that you are making the right cut?  Sometimes a picture is worth a thousand words, so see our photo below.  

rose pruning for Sacramento

Pruning Paraphernalia

While you wait for the right time to prune, make sure to get your pruning equipment in place. 

  1. Long handled bypass lopper for cutting the canes.

  2. Hand shears or secateurs for cutting small branches and eventual deadheading.

  3. Leather gloves to protect your hand from the thorns.

Remember that every rose in every garden is different.  Every gardener has a different agenda in pruning.  So go ahead and work on your own pruning style!  

We hope this is a good start to pruning, but if you'd like more information, call or visit any of our stores.

Store Locations


Topics: Shrubs, Pruning, Roses

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